Thursday, October 20, 2011

Pumpkin and Sunflower Seeds Pesto


A controversial Y.U.M.! The complexity and structure of taste of this pesto is something absolutely unique... All these ingredients vibrate on your tongue in a constant repeating rhythm leaving a nice warm aftertaste. It's definitely a dish of distinguishing notes but blended in a perfect harmony where one note comes after another... However, I recommend it to people that have endlessly adventurous taste-buds - my flatmates didn't go crazy over it as I did... ;) And I'll skip ginger next time I prepare it - nutmeg is enough. It is not my recipe; it comes from this blog but it 's something that I'd like to pass on... :)

When I told my flatmate about the unusual pumpkin recipe I found, her reaction was: "Then what exactly the whole idea of pesto is about?". So I did my homework... The two types of pesto the vast majority of us is familiar with are:  pesto genovese (basil, pine nuts, parmigiano/pecorino cheese, olive oil, garlic) and pesto alla siciliana/pesto rosso (with sun-dried tomatoes replacing a big part of basil and almonds instead of pine nuts). Accoding to Wiki, the contemporary version of pesto comes from a paste called moretum that was eaten by the ancient Romans - it was made from herbs, garlic and crushed cheese. The name "pesto" originates from the Italian: "pestare" which means "to pound/crush", in reference to the original method of preparation with mortar and pestle. Nowadays usually all the ingredients are ground together in a food processor which is not a good idea if we have to deal with fresh herbs - pounding them in a mortar is essential because only then we can bring out their oils, while food processing is all about mincing the leaves - it's something that I learned from a chef I met in Bali. Modern incarnation of pesto is commonly used on pasta, potatoes, toasts or even meat.




INGREDIENTS   &   METHOD

Serves 3 greedy ones
  • 250g baked pumpkin
  • 1 glass ground parmigiano (I used pecorino)
  • 1/2 glass nuts or seeds of your choice (I used sunflower seeds)
  • 2 tbsp virgine olive oil
  • 1/4 tsp nutmeg
  1. Blend all the ingredients in a food processor... :)
It tastes best when it's warmed up so the parmigiano/pecorino has the opportunity to develop its taste. I ate it with simple spaghetti, sprinkled with chopped baked chestnuts (provided a nice sweet twist) and a handful of parsley that I adore. Voila! :) 



Saturday, October 15, 2011

Spinach&Gorgonzola Penne with Almonds



Something special for all the Pastamen :) Simple and fast plus I used the rest of gorgonzola and baby spinach I had in my fridge. No foodieolosophy about it, it's definitely one of my comfort food = easy to prepare + lots of calories... I recommend experimenting with various types of nuts since almonds can be easily "dominated" by the blue cheese - next time I'll try roasted walnuts myself. I softened my spinach with peanut oil hoping it would intensify the nuttiness of the fresh spinach leaves but it made no difference in taste - in this case, my beloved butter is the answer. If it comes to the blue cheese, I mainly go for gorgonzola as I love its creaminess. Roquefort, Danish Blue and so on are perfectly OK but these types are more solid.

Oh, and what about the "100g pasta per person" rule? Last month I had the opportunity to roam around Naples with a self-appointed Pastaman who was outraged with a ceramic spaghetti measure he saw: "The serving for 3-4 people is my regular portion of pasta", said the being of "high metabolism" with a dogmatic tone of voice :)




INGREDIENTS   &   METHOD
Serves a single me

  • 100g penne
  • 70g Gorgonzola
  • 3-4 handfuls of fresh baby spinach
  • 2 tbsp creme fraiche (or sour cream containing at least 18% fat)
  • 1/2 clove of garlic
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • few almonds 
  1. Boil the water for pasta - 1 liter per 100g; add salt only when it boils (pre-salted water has a higher temperature of boiling so it takes more time to get it ready) and cook the pasta al dente :)
  2. Melt the butter and add the squashed garlic - these combo burns easily, so be careful.
  3. Add the spinach and wait until it softens and shrinks (it takes about a minute...)
  4. Stir the creme fraiche into the spinach and finely crumble the cheese into the mixture; wait until it melts.
  5. Errr...It's done :) Now you can roast the almonds on the oil-free pan, chop them and sprinkle over the dish to provide an extra crunchy texture.
  6. I devoured this portion watching "The Limits of Control" by Jarmusch - double Yum!


Sunday, October 9, 2011

Gorgonzola & Pear Salad with Pistachios and Honey-Ginger Vinegrette


Actually I made up the recipe for this salad when I was grocery shopping few days ago. And I have to modestly admit that it was one of the best salads I have ever had :) I think that my stay in Korea, which was some kind of an "exile" from food indulgence, let me now identify all of my food cravings more clearly and paradoxally had quite an impact on my food imagination. Roaming down the aisles I was just picking up all the ingredients with a friendly attitude to the wedge of gorgonzola that I already got. The guest star of the recipe are for sure the beets. I shredded just a bit of it, mostly for the visual effect. Blue cheese doesn't like sour company so I resorted to adding only a perfectly ripe and sweet pear. I sprinkled it with a bit of cinnamon (tried this combination few weeks ago in Rome - it does make a difference :) and a handful of chopped pistachios which turned out to be much more interesting (and tastier!) than the "walnut classic". However the walnut note can be smuggled into the salad if you replace honey with some good maple syrup. I put a dollop of my favourite buckwheat honey. OK, the truth is the dressing puts the whole thing few levels higher. Ginger - definitely one of my absolutely favourite food items with the most beautiful taste complexity. Seriously, I'd give up cooking if ginger were suddenly swept from the planet. A teaspoon of grated ginger that I added to a classic honey vinegrette made all the magic. I had some doubts when I came up with the idea - both ginger and gorgonzola are  spicy. But I thought "Fuck it, let's try!" and voila! A really beautiful combination where the distinctive 'spicy note' is the cheese, whereas the ginger just provides a nicely warm and smooth background. You're gonna love it! :)


INGREDIENTS    &   METHOD

Serving for one person

Salad's 'body':
  • few handfuls of your fave greens - I chose baby spinach, rocket and chicory
  • a small handful of shradded raw beets
  • 1 ripe pear
  • 70g gorgonzola picante
  • few pinches of cinnamon
  • a handful of pistachios
Honey-ginger Vinegrette (Salad's 'soul' ;)
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tsp buckwheat honey/maple syrup
  • 1 tsp fresh ginger
  • 1 pinch of salt


Thursday, October 6, 2011

Pumpkin Pie with Carmelized Almonds and Nutmeg Fruits




Staple of American cuisine which is not that popular in Europe. My craze about incorporating vegetables to baking goods started last year when I fell in love with an amazing carrot cake (Canadian thing ;) that I was indulging myself with at my university caffeteria - incredibly fluffy with perfect icing (while my carrot cakes are usually quite heavy, no matter how many egg whites I whip into the batter plus my icing is more 'cheesy' or vanilla custard-like as I cannot balance the taste properly...). Then there were carrot muffins with peach icing, chocolate cake with beetroots... :) Interesting thing is that people came up with all these recipes during wartimes when they had to face severe sugar shortages. Still, nobody felt like giving up the practise of sweetening the turmoil with baked goods so some desperate foodies started to replace a part of sugar with widely available vegetables containing lots of fructose, e.g. carrot, beets, pumpkin. Quite a milestone in the history of Foodism, isn't it? :)

It was the second time I baked the pie so I decided to add some more stuff to make it even more interesting. A layer of carmelized almonds found its place between the crust and pumpkin cream, while anis seeds and cloves lost themselves on the bottom of my mortar. Then revived with Mr.Ginger ended up in a dollop of condensed milk and pumpkin puree. Speaking on the pumpking puree, I made few jars of it last year and I have to brag that it was the first thing I pasteurized in my life - "professionally" in my little oven ;) 

However the most unique ingredient is definitely the preserved fruit of numeg I brought from Malaysia. Up to the mid-19th century Bandas Islands (Indonesia) were the world's only source of nutmeg which was traded exclusively by Arabs. In the 16th century, when the hub of Asian trade, Malacca, was conquered by the Portuguese the first Europeans reached the "spice islands". As the British weren't able to fully control the Bandas they desperately transplanted nutmeg trees to their other colonial holdings, including caribbean Grenada (its contemporary national flag even portrays a split-open nutmeg fruit ;) Nowadays nutmeg trees are also common in Penang Island in Malaysia which makes it one of the biggest nutmeg exporters. Moreover nutmeg is also an important ingredient of uniquely Penang ais kacang, which is quite interesting as traveling around Asia and trying some of ais kacang-like desserts (based on shaved ice) I didn't come aross anything flavoured with spices. And what does the fruit itself taste like? Like nutmeg :) But the flavour is more subtle. 

INGREDIENTS   &   METHOD
Crust
  • 150 g (1 cup) flour
  • 2 tbsp powdered sugar
  • 70g butter
  • pinch of salt
  • 3 tbsp ice-cold water
It's a typical sweet shortcrust so there are 2 basic rules: "2 parts of flour-1 part of fat ratio" and "the colder, the better". I do recommend keeping everything in a fridge before you start working with it (including the bowl and, in my case, fork). 
  1. Mix the flour and sugar. Make sure to use powdered sugar to distribute it evenly in the flour.
  2. Rub the butter into the sweetened flour with a chilled fork. Work on it until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. 
  3. Add the ice-cold water (spoon after spoon to control the consistency...) and stir the mixture with the cold fork until the dough binds together. If it's too sticky, dust it with a bit of flour but please, do not overwork it (...gluten strands ;)
  4. Wrap the ball of dough in clingfilm and chill for about 30 minutes.
  5. Roll the dough on a lightly floured surface and tranfer it to a 23-cm pie plate.
  6. Refridgerate the dough-lined pie plate once again.
  7. Pre-baking: Poke some holes in the crust with a fork and put the pie bottom to an oven (180 degrees Celsius). Pre-bake until it's pale golden (let's say 75% baked ;)
  8. Meanwhile prepare the almond crumble...
Work on the dough as fast as possible - it can't get warm! If the butter melts = become liquid, the gluten strands become longer = tough crust. That's why you have to make sure to coat the flour granules with fat evenly so they are not likely to develop a lot of gluten which makes the final product  t.o.u.g.h. There are 3 gluten-friendly factors aka. hazards to our shortcrust: 1. liquid, 2. kneading, 3. temperature. It also depends on the type of flour - bread flour develops more gluten than cake flour. There are 7 (!) types of wheat flour available on Polish market so you can easily match the right type of flour to the final product you want to obtain.

Almond crumble (you can skip it but it gives the pie another nice mouth-feel)
  • 70g almonds
  • 4 tbsp brown cane sugar
  1. Roast the chopped almonds on a pan (medium heat, no fat).
  2. Sprinkle the brown sugar over the roasted almonds and keep stirring for a minute or so until it resembles fine crumbs. Do not burn it! Sugar cannot get fully carmelized!
Filling
  • 400 ml pumpkin puree
  • 400 ml sweetened condenced milk
  • 100g brown cane sugar
  • 3 medium eggs
  • 3/4 tsp cinnamon
  • 1/2 tsp cardamon
  • 1 clove
  • 1 tsp anis seeds
  • 15g fresh ginger (about 1,5 cm)
  • 1/2 nutmeg fruit
  • orange zest (peeled from a single orange)
  • pinch of salt
  1. Beat the eggs with sugar until it blends nicely.
  2. Add the condenced milk and pumpkin puree.
  3. Add all the powdered spices, grate the fresh ginger (zest peeler is perfect for me - all the stringy parts separate nicely on one side of the peeler), chop the nutmeg fruit, grind the clove and anis seeds in a mortar - stir everything with the pumpkin mixture.
  4. Cover the pre-baked crust with the almond crumble and carefully pour the filling on the top and voila!
  5. Bake for about 45 minutes untill the pumpkin filling sets (you can check it with a toothpick). If the top starts to burn slightly, cover it with a 
  6. Let it cool down :)